Friday, February 5, 2010

A recipe for rabbit - Lapin a la Chasseur and the beautiful village of L’Isle Sur la Sorgue



Lapin a la Chasseur

Every time I think about rabbit, or lapin as it’s called in France, I think of a charming story I read about an American family from South Carolina that moved to France. The father worked for the Michelin Tire Company and was transferred, so he took his wife and family with him. They had two small children and the little girl was having difficulties learning French, so the mother asked the neighbor, a grandmotherly type, if she would help her daughter. The neighbor took the girl under her wing and one day they were on a walk and saw a rabbit in the garden. The grandmother told the little girl that it was called lapin. The little girl said, “He’s so cute.” “Non,” the grandmother replied, “delicieux.”

If you don’t like rabbit, don’t worry. The French Impressionist Claude Monet didn’t eat rabbit either. Who would dare to say the famous Monet didn’t have good taste. Just enjoy the photos for today. They are from L’Isle Sur la Sorgue, a charming French village with river canals of crystal blue water from the Sorgue River running between its ancient streets. There are several large old waterwheels that still turn. Sunday is the most popular day of the week in L’Isle Sur la Sorgue, because they hold a huge antique and flea market in conjunction with their farmers market. The village is a “do not miss” in travel guides. I hope you’ll enjoy them.



Because, as the grandmother said, the French think rabbit is delicious, we wanted to try to make it at home. We’d heard that rabbit was difficult to prepare because it’s often dry in texture. We’d made difficult dishes before, so as you can imagine, that didn’t’ stop us. One day while shopping at a butcher shop in a nearby town, we saw a package, so we snapped it up. As soon as we returned home we looked through all of our cookbooks for recipes for rabbit and found Lapin a la Mourtarde, meaning with mustard. In the past we’d used a similar recipe for chicken with mustard, carrots and onions that had been a success and decided to give it a try. We made every effort not to overcook it, but it turned out dry and we didn’t like it, although the sauce was delicious.



When we were in France, we asked Claude and Dana, owners of Bistro Decoverte, one of our favorite bistros in Saint-Remy, “Do you ever have lapin as your plat du jour?

“Not often,” Claude replied. “Why?” we asked. “Because it doesn’t sell well? “No,” he said, “actually it sells quite well, but it’s difficult to prepare.” Whew, even a Frenchman thinks it’s hard to prepare. It’s not just us. We told him to call us if he ever happened to have it on the menu and left it at that.

The next week I was walking along the boulevard when I heard someone call my name. Surprised that I might know someone in Saint-Remy, I looked around. It was Dana, Claude’s wife. We’re having lapin this Sunday she said. Would you like to make a reservation? Needless to say I said, “Oui Dana, s’il vous plait.” The lapin was delicious and was prepared a la Moutarde, with a mustard sauce. Claude quickly sold out of it and, much to our good fortune, featured it several more times during our stay.


When we returned home I was flipping through Mark Bittman and Jean- Georges Vongerichten’s cookbook, Simple to Spectacular, and ran across a recipe for Lapin a la Chasseur and decided to give rabbit a second change in my kitchen. Thanks to their excellent instructions, it turned out great and, as the French grandmother would say, delicieux. Because of their reputation and the fact that we’d failed before, I didn’t make many changes. I mean, who would have the audacity to think they could improve on a recipe from Jean-Georges? Not moi for certain. However, I took two shortcuts and used frozen little pearl onions and bought pre-sliced mushrooms. Rice or buttered noodles and a green salad make a nice accompaniment.



Lapin a la Chasseur
Adapted from Simple to Spectacular – serves 4

One 2 – 3 lb rabbit, cut into 10 pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme
15 small pearl onions, peeled (thawed and patted dry if using frozen)
8 ounces sliced white button mushrooms
½ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon sweet butter
¼ cup minced fresh chives or parsley for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Season the rabbit with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium high heat. Add rabbit pieces (do not crowd the pan; may have to do more than one batch) and turn the heat to high. When the rabbit begins to brown, turn heat down to medium and add garlic and thyme. When it’s nicely browned, stir in the pearl onions and mushrooms and put the pot in the oven for 15 minutes.

Remove all but the legs from the pot to a platter, cover and keep warm. Add wine, stir and return to the oven for another 10 minutes.

Remove pot from oven and return to stove top. Remove legs and set aside on platter with remaining pieces. Add butter to cooking liquid in the pot and stir until butter melts. Taste and add salt and pepper if desired. Spoon sauce over the rabbit and serve, garnished with chives or parsley.



49 comments:

  1. What a coincidence, I just made rabbit for dinner yesterday. I like it, but don't cook it so often because my husband complains there isn't enough meat there :)))
    This recipe looks absolutely delicious.

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  2. I loved reading your 'rabbit' tale Sam as I do like a good rabbit and mustard sauce. I shall try your recipe. Bistro Decouverte is one of my favourites too...sadly they are on holiday at the moment - I could quite do with a dinner there! xv

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  3. Lovely pics – and that rabbit looks scrumptious (or delicieux!).

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  4. Sam, what a wonderful story and beautiful photographs.

    This post brought back memories of my grandfather, also from South Carolina; who built rabbit traps as a hobby but also for their intended catch. Once in a while he would fix the best "rabbit stew" that would slow cook for hours using several large rewards of his work.

    The other caught rabbits were just move down the road from his unbelievable vegetable garden behind his house. That was the main reason for building the traps.

    Your dish looks very similar to granddad's, which I will have to make some time. Thanks for the memories...

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  5. One of my favorite places !! It really was magical the day we went..I will always love that place..There are songs in my head.. Had I been to St-Rémy and met dear people like you that cooked rabbit one night in their resto and told me..I would want it again also..Well done!

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  6. wow I am just loving all those pictures and wish I could be there!

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  7. Thanks for sharing these treasured memories with us Sam and for a delicieux lapin.

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  8. What a beautiful place. I also enjoyed the rabbit story to go with the photos. I have not had rabbit in a very long time. We used to have a restuarant here called the Rabbit Hutch. All they served was rabbit. It was way out in the country too!

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  9. Beautiful pictures and the recipe sounds delicious indeed!

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  10. I LOVE l'Isle sur la Sorgue and have bought quite a number of things there at the "brocante"; and I love le Lapin chasseur et le lapin a la moutarde. Perfect post. I am going to hunt down some rabbit-no pun intended- and follow the recipe this weekend. MERCI quelle bonne idee!!!

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  11. I ate a lot of rabbit as a kid and I lost my taste for it but you made it looks so good and the story to go with it has me yearning for rabbit once again!

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  12. You have an appetizing picture of Lapin Chasseur there. I used to cook rabbit often as my husband was un chasseur (hunter.) It is very easy to cook if the pieces have been cut. Actually I would use the same recipe to cook squirrels. I would either cook the lapin rouge or lapin blanc. Lapin blanc was like lapin chasseur which is with white wine, small onions and mushroom. Lapin rouge was with red wine, potatoes and some carrots. My mother would make it this way: Fry some chopped shallot in a mixture of oil and butter, remove. Coat rabbit pieces in flour mixed with herbes de Provence and fry until a golden colour then pour some cognac on it and light it. Then pour some flour on the pieces, turn then well and slowly add some broth and red wine. Add the shallot, salt and pepper. Cover and cook for about 45 minutes or less, add little potatoes or potatoes cut in chunks, little pieces of carrots, and cook until tender, add parsley for garniture. You can buy frozen rabbits here but they are a bit expensive.

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  13. My father being a hunter, and on my aunts farm wild hare was always jumping pass, so out came the gun (remember Texas ha!)...I was not fond until I began cooking it myself. This sounds and looks wonderful!

    I did find a source for it last year here in Jersey, and I just made sausage from it last week, was good braised in red wine and potatoes!

    Your story is wonderful too, as we had a pet rabbit that we were afraid my father would let go for the sport...

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  14. I had rabbit once at a restaurant and they obviously did not do a good job with it, because it was dry and tasted kind of wild. I've eaten venison a lot in Africa and loved it, but this rabbit meat I did not like.

    Maybe I should give it another try, but pick a restaurant that knows what they are doing!

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  15. Your rabbit looks delicious - I wnjoyed the story and the pictures too!

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  16. The recipe sounds wonderful. Bob loves rabbit, so it will be put to quick use here. Your photos are wonderful,Sam. I'm developing a serious case of wanderlust. have a great day.

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  17. The dinner looks excellent. I have never had rabbits. Not sure how they tastes. But with this little recipe, I am willing to give things a try :)

    Excellent story too :)

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  18. Sam, I have never tried rabbit, but my father taught me to try all foods and give them a chance. I've eaten frog legs, gator tail, rattle snake, tongue, emu, reindeer meatballs, etc. When you stop and think about it, escargots actually sounds scarier to eat than rabbit, but I love escargots!

    Loved this story and all of your others, too.

    XO,

    Sheila :-)

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  19. We used to spend some part of our summers in northern Michigan and there was a market in a little town called Boyne City that always carried rabbit. My mother told me to season it then fry it in butter, so that's the way I served it to my kids back then.
    I haven't seen rabbit in a market for a long time. Wonder if I can still get it anyplace around here?
    Love your recipe and who could improve on anything Jean-Georges did?
    Super photos, I so enjoyed traveling with you!

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  20. Oh my goodness... this town is perfect, and the recipe... so very French!

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  21. I have never had rabbit I don't believe I've ever seen it offered in stores here, but then, I've never really looked for it. It certainly looks delicious and I loved reading your story of that beautiful village in France.

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  22. Wonderful! I like lapin but have not made it at home yet, need to try soon! Last year when we were eating in Studio in CA there were so many rabbits right outside our window and we really hoping to have one on a menu that night :)

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  23. I have never eaten rabbit but, I would certainly welcome the opportunity.
    Ths was a really lovely post.

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  24. two times in as many days I hear about people eating rabbit. I've never even seen it (other than in its warm blooded fuzzy form) around here. I don't know if I can do it...LOL. Does it taste like chicken? hahaha

    btw... beautiful pictures!

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  25. Sam, thanks for your comment on my blog. I enjoy rabbit too. What I wonder is why the first one you cooked, à la moutarde, came out dry, while the others have been better. What did you do differently? Is it a question of cooking time? Maybe the first rabbit was a just tough old specimen.

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  26. I cooked a rabbit last weekend but unfortunately it was a rather tough bunny! I absolutely love Isle sur la Sorgue and always make a point of visiting the Sunday market when in Provence. I was last there in September when we had a weekend away for our wedding anniversary. The market is wonderful.

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  27. I love impressionists. I don't know who this Claude Money fellow you talk about is, but Rich Little was hilarious back in the day and that Frank Caliendo feller is pretty funny with his impressions. (ha!)

    I've never had rabbit and hope not to, ha ha. I do remember an episode of Man vs Wild in which Bear Gryls (sp?) caught one and while eating it said that he ate the bones because the rabbit meat itself was lacking in a certain vitamin or mineral. I'm pretty sure he wasn't at Bistro Decoverte, though ;)

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  28. I love the French journey you have taken us on these post couple posts. It's how I discovered your blog and I love it when you come back to it! I am not afraid to eat rabbit. It can be a bit of work (bones) but it's tasty and oh so French this way. But I have never prepared rabbit. GREG

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  29. I think I've only tried rabbit once and was pleasantly surprised. It's not the sort of thing you can easily find on suburban Long Island, but sometimes it is on the menu in a NYC restaurant. The idea of mustard and pearl onions is making my mouth water, already. Beautiful photos, Sam.

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  30. Dearest Sam,

    You would be soooo ashamed of me. I am such a hypocrite, I don't eat rabbit. And, yes I do eat all sorts of other cute animals. I think it's because I see them in my garden.

    That's not entirely true, when served lapin chez mes amis of course I eat it and don't say a word and, ok, yes, it's good.

    There, I've bared my soul and you will think much the less of me now. Tell me what I could take your sublime recipe to and substitute something else -- or completely ignore me. . .

    Love the pictures.

    Warmest regards,
    Tishx

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  31. I'm dreaming about visiting those places that you feature on your blog. Hope it will be soon.

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  32. Sam,
    I made a rabbit ragu from La Cucina Italiana last winter and it was delicious, other than that, have never attempted it like they prepare it in France, but it is delicious!

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  33. I have never tried rabbit but your dish looks wonderful. I love the story of the little girl too!

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  34. The pictures are beautiful and I so enjoyed the story of the little girl and the grandmother. I've never tried rabbit, but would if I happened to be in Saint-Remy. I know that I would love it, especially served with a mustard sauce. Kudos to you for trying it at home, it looks like a very succulent dish!

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  35. Amazing, My Hubs is a huge hunter and some of the guys were talking about Rabbit tonight. Great looking recipe. I sahred an award with you today. Pop over and see. @ mamabirdnest.com

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  36. My husband ordered rabbit at a restaurant once. I've never been able to bring myself to try it. I've heard it's good and your recipe certainly does look delightful. Someday...

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  37. Thank you so much, dear Sam, for these wonderful excursions into the French countryside ( I read your previous post too)!

    My mother made rabbit all the time, my parents had them on the farm. I remember it being always a delicious meal. Do I still eat rabbit? No! Every now and then there would be rabbit available at the local Safeway in DC, I looked at those cute little rabbit parts and just could not bring myself to take them home and cook them. No such mercy with chicken or lamb. Human nature reacts strange at times!

    Growing into adulthood in Italy was accompanied by capretto for Passover and Easter, always a delicacy, but nowadays I would be hesitant to eat baby goat! Thank goodness, Austrians stick to lamb . ;-)

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  38. Sam, I have prepared rabbit but the Italian way! I hope to post my recipe this Friday. The first time I ate it is was in Pisa, Italy, and it was so delicious I yearned for it over the years. When I finally found am Italian market that sold cleaned rabbit meat and I could make my own I was so happy!

    I will try your recipe next time. It sounds delicious!

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  39. That's one I haven't made....yet. Its on my to do....and love the deliciuex story!

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  40. Sam, lovely pictures...I enjoyed very much all of them...and the rabbit dish sure looks delicious and very tasty :-)

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  41. It has been a long time since I made rabbit. Will have to try your recipe. I also have a wanderlust looking at your beautiful pictures. I am planning a tentative trip to Paris and Provence the summer after this. Will surely visit this village.

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  42. Not adverse to cooking rabbit - just - never had. Although my Italian relatives kept rabbits just for that purpose. Imagine how horrified I was at age 9 to discover they were not "pets!" You do find small quantities of rabbit meat here in the grocers and huge quantities in my backyard! Yours is indeed delicieux! And the non-food photos are equally mouth-watering.

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  43. I've never made rabbit - looks tasty! And sure does make me want to go to France!

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  44. Ahhh! You've made my heart long for Provence already! I was lucky to visit L'Ilse Sur La Sorgue, Bistro Decoverte and the morning market at Saint Remy!

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  45. I love Provence! What a wonderful post - and I have never seen rabbit look so delectable. I do enjoy preparing it, but rarely do as it is not so easily accessible here. Thank you for sharing this recipe. I will use it - but it has to be on a cool night with a fire burning. It looks like a cozy dish for the fall...

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  46. What a lovely village! And how lucky that you ran into them and were able to try to their rabbit dish.

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  47. I will be daydreaming about l'Isle Sur la Sorgue! What a beautiful town - what is that yellow building alongside the canal? As for lapin, I've had it only on two occasions and loved them both (one was at the lovely Cafe Alsace in Decatur, GA). As I'm only beginning to master cooking lamb, I won't push my luck by trying to make rabbit at this time. But you've certainly sparked a craving!

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